I was invited to the launch party of the Michelin Guide Nordic Cities 2015 by my good friend André Blomberg-Nygård. This is the first year that Nordic cities get their own guide, as previously all the Nordic capitals, in addition to Gothenburg, have been included in the Main Cities of Europe Guide. Expectations were… somewhat high? Although, a lot of food writers also had expressed rather low expectations as the Michelin Guide has not prioritized the Nordics much so far. The event took place at Fotografiska in Stockholm on the 26th of February, 2015.
Launch Party at Fotografiska in Stockholm
The first hour was dedicated to mingling, bubbles, and appetizers. Not many Norwegian chefs were present, but Esben from Maaemo was there, and so was Bent from Statholdergaarden. In addition, Arve Podsada Krognes represented Noma (and he’s Norwegian, at least). It was suspected that at least one restaurant would have to get a third star, as a guide without a three-star restaurant seemed kind of odd. There was also a bet that restaurants at some odd locations like Fäviken Magasinet in Sweden and Henne Kirkeby Kro in Denmark would be featured. In Norway, we hoped that cities like Bergen, Stavanger, Kristiansand, and Trondheim would be added, with Måltid in Kristiansand as maybe the most anticipated star candidate.
However, the Michelin guide does not appear to care much about expectations. Maybe that is why they never awarded Noma, which is generally considered the best restaurant in the world, a third star before. They didn’t this year either. In fact, no restaurants got the third star. The only new cities to be added was Malmö in Sweden and Aarhus in Denmark. A restaurant I just visited a few weeks back, Restaurant Frederikshøj, did actually get the much-awaited star, though! Sadly, Oslo lost a star since Bagatelle closed and even their sister restaurant, Lille B, lost its Bib Gourmand title. Helsinki had no changes in their star status either. One could wonder if the Michelin inspectors even visited?
Michael Ellis, the Michelin Guide international director, seemed embarrassed about their inadequate overview of what happens in the restaurant scene in Oslo and Helsinki. I suspect that the Michelin Guide simply does not have the means to cover the Nordic properly. That’s a pity, and to be honest, they should never have launched a guide for the Nordic when it barely differs from the entries in the Main Cities of Europe anyway. I think the White Guide, which actually covers the entire Nordic in their latest edition, is a much better guide at the moment.
These Are the New Stars in the Michelin Guide Nordic Cities 2015
Norway
Two stars: Maaemo ⭐⭐
One star: Statholdergaarden, Ylajali, and Fauna ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Restaurant Eik, and Oro Bar & Grill
Stockholm
Two stars: Frantzén, Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen, and Oaxen Krog (NEW) ⭐⭐
One star: Ekstedt, Esperanto, Gastrologik, Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren, Operakällaren, and Volt (NEW) ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Brasserie Bobonne, Den Gyldene Freden, EAT, Oaxen Slip, Proviant, Rolfs Kök, Ulla Winbladh, and Lilla Ego (NEW)
Gothenburg
One star: Thörnströms Kök, 28+, Sjömagasinet, Bhoga, Koka (NEW), and SK Mat & Människor (NEW) ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Familjen
Malmö (NEW)
One star: Ambiance à Vindåkra (NEW), Bloom in the Park (NEW), and Vollmers (NEW) ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Bastard (NEW), and Sture (NEW)
Copenhagen
Two stars: Noma, Geranium, and AOC (NEW) ⭐⭐
One star: Clou, Den Røde Cottage, Era Ora, formel B, Grønbech & Churchill, Kadeau, Kiin Kiin, Kokkeriet, Marchal, Relæ, Søllerød Kro, and Studio at the Standard ⭐
Bib Gourmand: L’Altro, Bror, Enomania, Famo, Frederiks Have, Kødbyens Fiskebar, Marv & Ben, Mêlée, Pluto, and Rebel
Aarhus (NEW)
One star: Frederikshøj (NEW), Gastromé (NEW), and Substans (NEW) ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Hærværk (NEW), and Pondus (NEW)
Helsinki
One star: Ask, Chef & Sommelier, Demo, Luomo, and Olo ⭐
Bib Gourmand: Boulevard Social, Emo, Farang, Gaijin, and Pure Bistro
What do you think about the Michelin Guide Nordic Cities 2015? Feel free to leave a comment below.
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