Søllerød Kro The Tavern Where You'll Feel at Home

Press trip

Søllerød Kro is a one Michelin star restaurant in a Danish tavern that looks straight out of a fairytale world. It’s located a mere 25-minute drive, or 45-minute train ride, north of Copenhagen. Forget any associations you might have about pretentious service and arrogant attitudes in Michelin restaurants. Søllerød Kro is a tavern where you’ll feel right at home. Thanks, more than anything, to the restaurant manager Jan Restorff. He refuses to use such fancy titles, though, and calls himself simply a host.

Søllerød Kro is located a short drive outside Copenhagen in fairytale-like surroundings
Søllerød Kro is located a short drive outside Copenhagen in fairytale-like surroundings

I was here together with a bunch of journalists, food and travel writers, invited by Visit Denmark back in November last year. This was the lunch spot on the second day of a trip where the topic was “luxury in Copenhagen.” Well, Søllerød Kro surely did not hold back on the luxury. Truffle-mania has never been a more fitting word. The table action on almost every dish was truffle shaving upon truffle shaving. I was surprised that they didn’t shave truffles on our desserts.

The truffle platter
The truffle platter
Jan Restorff. The man. The legend. The perfect host.
Jan Restorff. The man. The legend. The perfect host.

Despite the luxury ingredients, white cloths, and silver cutlery, the atmosphere could not have been more relaxed at Søllerød Kro. When our host, Jan Restorff, welcomed us with his arms wide open everyone dropped their guard. He patted his belly and blamed a love to food for both his size and happiness. Jan is the kind of guy you just have to experience. It’s hard to explain exactly how his presence fills the room with warmth and joy. He is the very epitome of great service. If you can read Danish I can recommend this article about him.

Henrik and Julie from Visit Denmark
Henrik and Julie from Visit Denmark
Søllerød's signature dish "Caviar en Surprise."
Søllerød’s signature dish “Caviar en Surprise.”
The surprise is revealed. The box wasn't completely filled with caviar after all, but hiding a layer of razor clams and a panna cotta with horseradish.
The surprise is revealed. The box wasn’t completely filled with caviar after all, but hiding a layer of razor clams and a panna cotta with horseradish.

The first serving we got was a signature dish called “Caviar en Surprise.” This surprise was created by former head chef Jacob de Neergaard. It was first served as a joke to Bo Bech of restaurant Geist, when he was celebrating with his colleagues at Søllerød Kro. Upon serving, all the chefs thought they were getting a whole box of premium Rossini caviar. Although a generous amount of caviar, it’s actually just a top layer hiding other ingredients underneath. Hence the surprise! In our case, it was a horseradish panna cotta, and razor clams, but this changes with the season. My Danish acquaintance, Feinschmeckeren, has made the original recipe with lobster on his blog.

It's not done until it's covered in truffles
It’s not done until it’s covered in truffles
The butter serving at Søllerød Kro
The butter serving at Søllerød Kro
Octopus with hazelnuts, spruce shoots, and autumn truffles
Octopus with hazelnuts, spruce shoots, and autumn truffles

The struggle is real at Søllerød Kro! You will get truffle on almost every dish when it’s in season. Like my good friend, LuxEat, also points out in her visit at Søllerød Kro: This is not new Nordic cuisine, but it’s definitely one of the best kitchens in the entire country of Denmark. While most of the produce was local and seasonal, the style of cooking is more classical French than Scandinavian. You won’t hear me complaining about foie gras, caviar, and truffles, though! French is often associated with traditional, but this is very much an up-to-date kitchen.

The dish that looks like the Phantom Blot
The dish that looks like the Phantom Blot
Tournedos Rossini à la Søllerød Kro.
Tournedos Rossini à la Søllerød Kro.
Jerusalem artichoke with a creamy spuma. It's still not done until it's covered in truffle. I'd like to have this on my death bed, so I can pass to the beyond happy.
Jerusalem artichoke with a creamy spuma. It’s still not done until it’s covered in truffle. I’d like to have this on my death bed, so I can pass to the beyond happy.
There we go... covered in truffle
There we go… covered in truffle

I must say I prefer the cooking style of head chef Brian Mark Hansen when he’s in his own kitchen. Brian was one of the eight stars at the chefs’ meet-up at hotel Frederiksminde. The dish he made back then had a similar element to the “Tournedos Rossini” we got. An impressively thin skin which covered the main ingredients. However, the secret underneath was way tastier at Søllerød Kro.

A piece of juicy beef, topped with foie gras, covered with a black blanket of some sort
A piece of juicy beef, topped with foie gras, covered with a black blanket of some sort
A winter wonderland. Passionfruit with vanilla, coconut, brown butter and yogurt sorbet.
A winter wonderland. Passionfruit with vanilla, coconut, brown butter and yogurt sorbet.
2012 Beerenauslese Scheurebe, Winzenkeller Andau from Burgenland for the dessert
2012 Beerenauslese Scheurebe, Winzenkeller Andau from Burgenland for the dessert

I can only imagine how wonderful the complete experience must be at Søllerød Kro. We only got a small preview in this four-course lunch serving. Envision as well how incredible this place is in the summer time. I’m already dreaming about the next time Jan Restorff lifts his arms and utter the word “welcome.”

Flødebolle!
Flødebolle!
A chocolate gold bar
A chocolate gold bar
Perfect French canelés
Perfect French canelés
Head chef Brian Mark Hansen and restaurant manager Jan Restorff
Head chef Brian Mark Hansen and restaurant manager Jan Restorff
The bubbles and wines we had at lunch
The bubbles and wines we had at lunch
Brian Mark Hansen and Henrik from Visit Denmark
Brian Mark Hansen and Henrik from Visit Denmark

What is your favorite Danish tavern? Please share in the comments below.

Disclaimer

This was part of a press trip with Visit Denmark. As always, the content reflects my sincere opinion and is my personal recommendation.

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