It is summer in Oslo and a lot of restaurants are closed. I recently made a guide to the best restaurants in Oslo that are open all summer. That’s been my most read article thus far this year since it helps both tourists and locals to find places to dine in July and August. The Thief (ad: affiliate link) was featured in my guide, but it lacked an inside look at the latest menu. They’ve been doing a lot of changes this year to their Foodbar-concept. Thus, we ventured up to the Thief Foodbar on the roof last week.
The Thief is Oslo’s finest boutique hotel situated at Tjuvholmen (tjuv = thief, hence the name) with a spectacular view of the Oslo fjord. It’s very close to the Astrup Fearnley Museum and the awesome Vingen Bar. On the rooftop, there’s an al fresco restaurant that is open only in the summer season, between June 24th and August 21st this year. Thief Foodbar on the roof replaces the regular Foodbar on the 2nd floor as well as the fine dining restaurant Fru K, which both closes roughly in the same period.
When you enter the hotel you take the elevator to the 9th floor to get to the roof. Exit and take a right turn, through the lounge area, to get directly to the food bar. You might be fooled by the cocktail bar on your immediate left as you leave the elevator, but that’s also a nice place to start. The head chef of the food bar, Tobias Persson, is manning the grill along with his colleague Marlon Malabanan.
The weather was quite nice this day, but with some scary looking clouds on the horizon. There was no need to worry, though, since the Thief Foodbar on the roof is equipped with both heaters, blankets and a simple roof that covers the entire patio. We experienced a few drops of rain and some heavy winds before the sky cleared up and the temperature rose again. Lucky, because the rooftop is definitely best enjoyed on sunny days.
The absolute best dish we had was the pan-fried and buttery brioche, topped with delicate snow crab and the Swedish cheese Prästost. It’s worth the visit alone. The combination worked surprisingly well, in my opinion. Soft sweet crab and salty cheese on top of a fatty, crispy brioche. I just wished they would have used the same bread for the shrimp roll, which was rather dry and uninteresting in comparison.
Another highlight for me was the veal “tataki,” with a crispy cumin bread, løyrom, and miso mayo, although from my perspective it looked more like a carpaccio on crispy bread than tataki. Hedda enjoyed the burrata with petit pois and bacon. Did you know a burrata is actually stracciatella di bufala encapsulated in a mozzarella bag? The stracciatella is shredded fresh cheese mixed with heavy cream and makes up the delicious and soft core inside. None of us preferred the slightly odd-looking ceviche.
We both agreed that the turbot on the bone was a winner among the main courses. Sprinkled with horseradish and dill and bathing in delectable browned butter. Who can resist browned butter? It’s impossible. I would drink it if it was healthier. A very nice potato salad on the side with capers and Gruyère cheese. I love Gruyère cheese too. Come to think of it, I love cheese and butter in general. Happiness in an edible format right there.
Claire Mariottini was our sommelier and waiter this afternoon. A fantastic woman, with great knowledge of wines and a very pleasurable approach to service. Hedda reminded me that we had her at our table in Fru K as well when we dined there on Hedda’s birthday back in March. A meal I still haven’t had the chance to write about yet, but we might just go again soon and see the new and updated menu instead.
Where have you dined in Oslo this summer? Please share in a comment below.
This was a sponsored invitation by The Thief. The restaurant had no influence on the content of this article, there is no form of cooperation between us, I was not obliged to publish anything, and I received no monetary payment.