Wow! You think you have seen everything, and then you experience Geranium. This two Michelin-starred restaurant in Copenhagen isn’t getting anywhere close to the attention of restaurant Noma. Quite undeserved, because the dining experience here is truly outstanding. This was the most mindblowing meal I ate in Copenhagen during my foodie tour last summer.
Situated in the most unlikely location you can imagine for a Michelin-starred restaurant – as part of the Østerbro football stadium. That is Geranium you see in the far right corner of the picture below. Once you enter, though, you completely forget where you actually are, because the interiors are beautifully designed and the view is stunning.
I remember talking to my friend Andreas Viestad in the car on our way home from Fäviken. The topic was food and art. I said I considered food a form of art. You can see it, feel it, smell it, taste it and have truly amazing experiences in food settings. Andreas sort of disagreed, saying he thought that was degrading food in a way. Of course, he was right. Food is more than art, because you also need it to survive and it deserves a category of its own in human culture. Still, I have no better ways to express this than to call food an art-like experience, and there is no better proof than Geranium!
On this particular evening, we had the Universe Menu and more specifically the Summer Universe. The menu will change during the autumn and adapt to the new ingredients of the winter season. The meal kicked off with nine small appetizers, continued with nine main courses, four desserts and ended with a selection of four sweets to go with the coffee. I believe around ten servings in total were considered signature dishes. As a guest, you are stunned by the beauty of each serving, and completely mind blown by the continued high level of quality in each and every one of the 26 plates put in front of you.
Some restaurants focus on the big flavors and not so much on the plating of the dishes. Others will present the most wonderful looking culinary art, but the taste plays second-guitar. Very few will master a combination of both, but Geranium does. This is molecular gastronomy done right, where you don’t necessarily focus on the fact that it is a show.
Geranium is New Nordic and everything you have come to expect from that – organic, local produce, seasonal ingredients and natural wine. It is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, no. 2 in Denmark and no. 3 in the Nordics in the 2016 White Guide. It was rated no. 51 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2015. Head chef Rasmus Kofoed is the only chef in the world to bring home bronze, silver, and gold from the heavyweight championship of cooking – Bocuse d’Or. This impressive merit list could go on. Despite all this, Geranium has struggled with their economy. I hope the new investors manage to keep the place alive, because this is an experience I wish for all foodies to take part in.
Many meals pass by and you forget how they were like. However, I will not forget my meal at Geranium and the wonderful tour we got of the wine cellar from co-owner Søren Ledet. Of course, I had the best imaginable table company who had dined at Geranium several times before and knew so much about the place. I consider myself very lucky to return so soon again. Next week I will try the Winter Universe of Rasmus Kofoed!
Which fine dining places in Copenhagen have you visited? Which are your favorites? Drop a word below.
This restaurant has since achieved three Michelin stars. Read my updated post.