Kadeau in Copenhagen The Sister Restaurant of the Bornholm Paradise

In May this year I visited paradise on earth – restaurant Kadeau on Bornholm. If you want the most complete dining experience you can possibly imagine, where the surroundings perfectly complement the restaurant and the presentations are as beautiful as the tastes are sublime, that’s where you want to go. Assuming that you are willing to travel to a small island that is…
Pickled and preserved...everything!
Pickled and preserved…everything!
I knew the Copenhagen location could not possibly match the stunning environment of the mother restaurant, but the food experience alone was reason to check it out. Kadeau Copenhagen has one Michelin star, and I can guarantee that Kadeau Bornholm would as well if the island was on the map of the Michelin inspectors.
A great interior at Kadeau Copenhagen as well
A great interior at Kadeau Copenhagen as well
I’ll admit, though, having fairly recently visited Kadeau Bornholm it was not my priority to check out the Copenhagen branch just yet. I feared the menus would be too similar. However, my Eatinerary friend convinced me. She told me that Kadeau was her absolute favorite in Copenhagen! During our dinner together at restaurant Taller I learned to trust her taste in restaurants.
I arrived so early I had time to watch the chefs prepare the mise en place
I arrived so early I had time to watch the chefs prepare the mise en place
Elderflowers!
Elderflowers!
Thus, the next morning, I met my friend for lunch in Christianshavn. I was the first guest to enter that morning. Later on a single diner arrived, then a couple and a table of four. That was it! Not remotely close to a full restaurant for lunch. What a shame. Kadeau deserves to be filled to the rafters. People should struggle to get a seat here. That’s how good it is.
I had a glass of Champagne at my table as soon as I sat down. Gotto love that at 12 o'clock. Laherte Frères, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Nature
I had a glass of Champagne at my table as soon as I sat down. Gotto love that at 12 o’clock. Laherte Frères, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Nature
A soup of Danish apples & lettuce to start the lunch serving
A soup of Danish apples & lettuce to start the lunch serving
You want the full treat called “Bornholmerbank”, which includes about 20 servings. I chose this option despite the fact that I was going to Geranium the same evening. Nothing beats a 20 course meal followed by a 20 course meal. However, I did apply some common sense to my alcohol intake and chose the juice pairings for lunch. That would turn out to be an excellent option. I’ve never had a juice pairing before, but it is a very interesting experience as an alternative to wine pairings.
Crispy sourdough sticks with lichen dusting. I had this one on Bornholm too!
Crispy sourdough sticks with lichen dusting. I had this one on Bornholm too!
Plaice, a flatfish, in a cream of horseradish and fresh cheese. Rolled in a burnt squash
Plaice, a flatfish, in a cream of horseradish and fresh cheese. Rolled in a burnt squash
Weingut LOIMER, Traubensaft prickelnd, 2013. Medium sweet with a nice acidity
Weingut LOIMER, Traubensaft prickelnd, 2013. Medium sweet with a nice acidity

The Kadeau restaurants are owned by the trio Nicolai Nørregaard, Magnus Koefoed and Rasmus Kofoed. A fun fact is that Rasmus just happens to have the same name as the head chef at Geranium. I met Nicolai when I was on Bornholm, and this morning Magnus was in the restaurant. He came over to us, and sat down for a chat. Surprisingly, he could even let us in on a little secret. The restaurant is moving! Just next door, though, and the old location will be used for a new concept called Eldorado. I will check them both when I am back in Copenhagen by the end of November.

Magnus Kofoed sat down for a chat with us
Magnus Kofoed sat down for a chat with us
Celeriac and smoked herring with red wood sorrel. Another dish I tried a variety of on Bornholm
Celeriac and smoked herring with red wood sorrel. Another dish I tried a variety of on Bornholm
Salsify, buttermilk and hard cheese
Salsify, buttermilk and hard cheese
Fried smelt fish, dip in yeast and then in pollen. A variety on another dish from Bornholm
Fried smelt fish, dip in yeast and then in pollen. A variety on another dish from Bornholm

At both of the Kadeau restaurants you get so much value for money if you look at the complete experience. Each and every one of the 20 servings you receive are well executed both in presentation and flavor. What you get in front of you is a piece of art. The food is a true representation of the nature and produce on the tiny island of Bornholm. It is served on a piece of art as well. The Bornholm based ceramic artist Lov in Listed delivers all ceramics to the four Kadeau-owned places, including SommerPONY, which I checked out this summer.

Roasted corn and corn emulsion. It looked better than it tasted
Roasted corn and corn emulsion. It looked better than it tasted
Cured duck with cep mushroom dusting
Cured duck with cep mushroom dusting
Duck hearts with dried flowers, cress and an unripe green strawberry
Duck hearts with dried flowers, cress and an unripe green strawberry
Dip the hearts and eat them straight of the stick
Dip the hearts and eat them straight of the stick
The bread serving at Kadeau is close to perfection. Incredibly crispy crust with a soft, warm inside. Butter with burnt hay
The bread serving at Kadeau is close to perfection. Incredibly crispy crust with a soft, warm inside. Butter with burnt hay
Peas, broadbeans, cockles & chanterelles
Peas, broadbeans, cockles & chanterelles
The first housemade juice! Gooseberries, sweet cicely & asparagus
The first housemade juice! Gooseberries, sweet cicely & asparagus
Kadeau dishes are beautiful in their simplicity. Lifted by the lovely Lov in Listed ceramics
Kadeau dishes are beautiful in their simplicity. Lifted by the lovely Lov in Listed ceramics
Sorrel, lovage, mussels & new potatoes.
Sorrel, lovage, mussels & new potatoes.
"Ingrid Marie" apples, mussels, angelica & lovage. I could not feel any mussel flavor, but I guess it balanced the drink somehow
“Ingrid Marie” apples, mussels, angelica & lovage. I could not feel any mussel flavor, but I guess it balanced the drink somehow
Cabbage from the garden, oysters and parsley
Cabbage from the garden, oysters and parsley
Rhubarb, "Elstar" apple & green strawberries
Rhubarb, “Elstar” apple & green strawberries
Grilled beetroot, berries from last summer & dried lamb heart. I totally loved this dish! So intense, but so well balanced. Beets driven dishes are usually not my favorite, but this was an exception
Grilled beetroot, berries from last summer & dried lamb heart. I totally loved this dish! So intense, but so well balanced. Beets driven dishes are usually not my favorite, but this was an exception
"Elstar" apple, beach rose vinegar & mushroom
“Elstar” apple, beach rose vinegar & mushroom
Grilled mackerel, new onions, fermented cep mushrooms & leeks
Grilled mackerel, new onions, fermented cep mushrooms & leeks
The chefs came out to serve their dishes by the table
The chefs came out to serve their dishes by the table
Elderflower, pear vinegar & rowan
Elderflower, pear vinegar & rowan
I had a similar dish to this one on Bornholm, but not with mackerel
I had a similar dish to this one on Bornholm, but not with mackerel
Pork, garlic, pumpkin & shallots. Almost a true copy of a Bornholm dish, but some slight varieties
Pork, garlic, pumpkin & shallots. Almost a true copy of a Bornholm dish, but some slight varieties
Traubensaft, gooseberries & pumpkin vinegar
Traubensaft, gooseberries & pumpkin vinegar
Berries, honey and herbs...
Berries, honey and herbs…
...and a layer of frozen buttermilk
…and a layer of frozen buttermilk
"Holsteiner cox" apple, yoghurt, whey & elderflower vinegar
“Holsteiner cox” apple, yoghurt, whey & elderflower vinegar
Nitrogen freezed elements are always fun!
Nitrogen freezed elements are always fun!
A tart with caramelized buttermilk cream, blueberries and elderflowers
A tart with caramelized buttermilk cream, blueberries and elderflowers
"Holsteiner cox" apple, raspberry & cherries
“Holsteiner cox” apple, raspberry & cherries
If this isn't the most beautiful dish ever...
If this isn’t the most beautiful dish ever…
Roasted apples on a stick. This made more sense sitting by the bonfire at Bornholm
Roasted apples on a stick. This made more sense sitting by the bonfire at Bornholm
Petits fours for the coffee with a hiprose gel and buttermilk cream with raspberries
Petits fours for the coffee with a hiprose gel and buttermilk cream with raspberries
This bad ass team took care of our table
This bad ass team took care of our table
Have you been to any of the Kadea restaurants? Or the PONY restaurants? Feel free to comment on your experience below.

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