Review: Kadeau Bornholm (2015) Paradise is on a Tiny Danish Island

After three days on Bornholm we were already sold. This really felt like a dream. The passion and dedication for food that we saw, reflected in organic farming, animal welfare, sustainability, and great utilization of local produce had us convinced. Not to mention the stunning nature with beaches in the south, mighty cliffs in the north, and endless fields of rapeseed flowers and, forest floor covered in ramsons wherever you wander. However, the true diamond of this island had yet to be explored. Restaurant Kadeau was booked for our Friday evening. Imagine you went to heaven and there were no pearly gates. No soft clouds to step on or angels with feathered wings. Instead, there was a small cottage, soft sand to dig your feet into, and white-clad waiters. That’s what Kadeau felt like. A little paradise on earth.

Restaurant Kadeau is located in this tiny cottage on Bornholm.
Restaurant Kadeau is located in this tiny cottage on Bornholm.

A Visit to Kadeau Bornholm

Kadeau opened in 2010 and is co-owned by Magnus Koefoed, Nicolai Nørregaard, and Rasmus Kofoed. They have a sister restaurant by the same name in Copenhagen with one Michelin star, as well as a bistro called Pony which also serves Bornholm food. This summer they opened SommerPONY on Bornholm, which will close during winter months just like Kadeau.

We arrived early to take some photos. Our waiter and sommelier for the evening, Kristine, was waiting for us in the doorway.

– Should I put some Champagne glasses outside for you?

Yes, please do! We inspected the beach. Sand as soft as cotton. Rumor has it that Napoleon used it for his time glasses. On the horizon is only the sea as far as the eye can see. The Baltic Sea.

The beach outside Kadeau and the Baltic Sea.
The beach outside Kadeau and the Baltic Sea.
Champagne Barrat-Masson "Fleur de Craie".
Champagne Barrat-Masson “Fleur de Craie”.
The dining room with a stunning sea view. Where we were about to experience the "Bornholmerbank" menu.
The dining room with a stunning sea view. Where we were about to experience the “Bornholmerbank” menu.
The edible parts of this dish are the two yellow dusted sticks of crispy sourdough. The dust is lichen – a kind of moss.
The edible parts of this dish are the two yellow dusted sticks of crispy sourdough. The dust is lichen – a kind of moss.
Smoked celeriac with ramson and red sorrel.
Smoked celeriac with ramson and red sorrel.
Cured duck with cep mushroom dust.
Cured duck with cep mushroom dust.
Dried beetroot with the dust of wild carrot and served with a super tasty blue cheese cream.
Dried beetroot with the dust of wild carrot and served with a super tasty blue cheese cream.
Leek with dust of fermented corn.
Leek with dust of fermented corn.
The bread serving at Kadeau was as visually appealing as the rest. The butter was dusted with the ash of burnt hay.
The bread serving at Kadeau was as visually appealing as the rest. The butter was dusted with the ash of burnt hay.
North sea shrimp, pollen yeast, and cream with lumpfish roe. This dish immediately reminded us about a similar dish at Ylajali.
North sea shrimp, pollen yeast, and cream with lumpfish roe. This dish immediately reminded us about a similar dish at Ylajali.
White asparagus sautéed in butter, with mayo of green herbs from the garden and shaved ham.
White asparagus sautéed in butter, with mayo of green herbs from the garden and shaved ham.
Talking about herbs from the garden, we had to take a stroll in the amazing backyard of Kadeau, where they grow a lot of the plants and herbs they use for their presentations. The place reminded us of Amass in Copenhagen, where we dined last year.
Talking about herbs from the garden, we had to take a stroll in the amazing backyard of Kadeau, where they grow a lot of the plants and herbs they use for their presentations. The place reminded us of Amass in Copenhagen, where we dined last year.
I found my favorite herb – nasturtium.
I found my favorite herb – nasturtium.
We also found “Kodriver” or primula, which we had foraged a few days earlier.
We also found “Kodriver” or primula, which we had foraged a few days earlier.
Back inside we had a fun wine on the table. Love and pif! Yann Durieux 2013 Burgundy.
Back inside we had a fun wine on the table. Love and pif! Yann Durieux 2013 Burgundy.
Green asparagus, aromatic herbs, razor clam bouillon & green strawberry juice.
Green asparagus, aromatic herbs, razor clam bouillon & green strawberry juice.
Outside, Jonas lit a bonfire. The amazing smell of the smoke, which aroused memories of my childhood, started to seep into the restaurant.
Outside, Jonas lit a bonfire. The amazing smell of the smoke, which aroused memories of my childhood, started to seep into the restaurant.
Chef and co-owner Nicolai Nørregaard.
Chef and co-owner Nicolai Nørregaard.
Shallots and lovage with Havgus cheese and yogurt whey.
Shallots and lovage with Havgus cheese and yogurt whey.
Suddenly we were back on Champagne to match the next dish! André Beaufort 2008.
Suddenly we were back on Champagne to match the next dish! André Beaufort 2008.
Kale, wild shots, and leaves with oysters and goat milk.
Kale, wild shots, and leaves with oysters and goat milk.
Norwegian langoustine with grilled cauliflower, lots of flowers, and a juice of plums and beach rose.
Norwegian langoustine with grilled cauliflower, lots of flowers, and a juice of plums and beach rose.
The definite highlight of the evening, both in taste and looks!
The definite highlight of the evening, both in taste and looks!
The pairing for the langoustine was Jean-Marie Berrux “Le petit têtu” 2013.
The pairing for the langoustine was Jean-Marie Berrux “Le petit têtu” 2013.
The interior of Kadeau is designed like a small cottage with wooden furniture and even a cast iron oven.
The interior of Kadeau is designed like a small cottage with wooden furniture and even a cast iron oven.

Restaurant Kadeau Bornholm

Restaurant Kadeau Bornholm

Restaurant Kadeau Bornholm

Grilled turbot with new onions, fermented cep mushrooms & mussels.
Grilled turbot with new onions, fermented cep mushrooms & mussels.
Onto red wine and we got a Domaine Chandon de Briailles “Les Lavières” 2011.
Onto red wine and we got a Domaine Chandon de Briailles “Les Lavières” 2011.
The main dish was yet another highlight…
The main dish was yet another highlight…
Pork with yellow beets and pumpkin.
Pork with yellow beets and pumpkin.
We had seen a picture of the bonfire on Instagram before we arrived and we had to copy it. The image looks nice, but the real thing was so much better.
We had seen a picture of the bonfire on Instagram before we arrived and we had to copy it. The image looks nice, but the real thing was so much better.
Live fire. The smell. The warmth.
Live fire. The smell. The warmth.
Markus offering us some wine to go with the cheese.
Markus offering us some wine to go with the cheese.
Champ Divin Cuvée Pollux Jura 2009.
Champ Divin Cuvée Pollux Jura 2009.
As the sun was setting we were asked if we wanted to enjoy the final plates outside, sitting by the second bonfire.
As the sun was setting we were asked if we wanted to enjoy the final plates outside, sitting by the second bonfire.
Blackcurrant, cream, and salsify.
Blackcurrant, cream, and salsify.
Rhubarb, blue cheese, fermented honey, and birch.
Rhubarb, blue cheese, fermented honey, and birch.
Good night, Bornholm.
Good night, Bornholm.
Grilled apples on sticks to end the meal.
Grilled apples on sticks to end the meal.

Anders Husa

Anders Husa and Kaitlin Orr are food & travel bloggers and creative content creators. From their base in Copenhagen, they operate the largest and most influential restaurant-focused travel blog in Scandinavia.

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