The New Kadeau Copenhagen Potentially the Next Two-Michelin-Starred Restaurant

Restaurant Kadeau in Copenhagen has changed location! Nicolai Nørregaard, Magnus Høegh Kofoed and Rasmus Kofoed have not moved very far, though. In fact, they’ve just shifted to next door, from Wildersgade 10 A to 10 B. However, the move represents a far more significant change than the few metres would indicate. With the switch of interiors and a brand-new kitchen comes a completely remade menu as well. Every element from the tasting menu I had here last summer is gone, and replaced with food that is right on the cutting-edge of new Nordic cooking. I would be surprised if the new Kadeau Copenhagen is not a candidate for two Michelin stars in the near future.

Kadeau has moved from Wildersgade 10 A to 10 B
Kadeau has moved from Wildersgade 10 A to 10 B

At the start of 2015, I had only dreamt about eating at Kadeau some day. Little did I know that one year later I would have paid them as many as four visits! Last year I visited both their original restaurant Kadeau on the island paradise of Bornholm, the Copenhagen branch in the late summer, and their new location by the end of November. In January this year, I went back to the Copenhagen location again! This time to celebrate the birthday of Virginia from restaurant Geranium with a bunch of other foodies. We had rented the whole place.

Virginia on the left & Nicolai in the middle
Virginia on the left & Nicolai in the middle
The new design of Kadeau is Scandinavian with a touch of Japanese
The new design of Kadeau is Scandinavian with a touch of Japanese

The new Kadeau has one of the most amazing open kitchens I have ever seen. It’s custom made by a woodworker, and consist of two floating islands with a clear view of the entire restaurant. There’s no walls or windows between the kitchen and restaurant, it’s just one big open room. Another important part of the kitchen is the fireplace, which helps create that flavor and aroma of rural Bornholm. The interior is a mix of Scandinavian and Japanese. Beautiful wooden slats, wooden tables, and chairs and even wooden lamps! Such a pleasant and cozy atmosphere makes it so much easier to forgive that there’s not a sandy beach outside or ocean as far as the eye can see. Only Kadeau Bornholm can give you that experience, but the new Kadeau Copenhagen makes you forget about the world outside completely.

The table is set for one of the best meals you'll ever eat
The table is set for one of the best meals you’ll ever eat
Blackcurrant leaves, wood sorrel and kohlrabi
Blackcurrant leaves, wood sorrel and kohlrabi
The table of the birthday girl
The table of the birthday girl

The food at the new Kadeau Copenhagen is one big feast for the taste buds, especially if you’re fond of acidity. The presentations are not as spectacular as they were at the old location in Copenhagen or in the summer on Bornholm, but flavorwise I found it to be a considerable upgrade. I guess I shouldn’t be so surprised that the presentations are less colorful and bright in the winter. Afterall, most of the stuff they use is either pickled, fermented or preserved in some way to make it last. In a new Nordic kitchen, the winter is a dead season. In that sense, the plates truly represent the nature and vegetation in our cold and frostbitten part of the world. I’m excited to see how the summer menu will look like, though.

Almost all dishes gets a final touch at the table by the chefs
Almost all dishes gets a final touch at the table by the chefs
Panorama windows fills the room with natural light
Panorama windows fills the room with natural light
Grilled Danish oysters, kale and fermented pea juice
Grilled Danish oysters, kale and fermented pea juice

The Danish journalist Joakim Grundahl wrote in Politiken that Kadeau has the ability to immerse nature in photographic developer. This is exactly what I’ve been thinking, I’ve just not been able to put it as well as he did. Kadeau is all about the nature at Bornholm. Nature is presented on your plate, almost naked and raw. The Kadeau guys have simply lifted it up a level, extracted its true flavor, and forced the full potential out of each bite. The combinations are impeccable. Each plate is a small surprise. You can look forward to every one of the 20 servings. It’s even hard to choose a favorite. So hard, in fact, that I couldn’t even pick one for my top 20 dishes last year. I would’ve had to put the whole meal in there.

2014 Valentin Morel, Les Pieds Sur Terre, Chardonnay Les Trouillots
2014 Valentin Morel, Les Pieds Sur Terre, Chardonnay Les Trouillots
Pickled vegetables, fresh cheese, fermented tomato juice and chamomile
Pickled vegetables, fresh cheese, fermented tomato juice and chamomile
Chefs with tweezers
Chefs with tweezers

It’s impossible not to be amazed by the force of the Kadeau trio. First, they move their old one Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen and reopen as one of the most beautiful looking restaurants in the world with top level food. Then they turn their old venue into a more laid-back brasserie with inspiration from across the world. I called Eldorado an instant new favorite of mine in Copenhagen, and everyone I have recommended it to falls in love. At the same time Nicolai, Magnus, and Ramus go ahead and receive their first Michelin star for the original restaurant on Bornholm. All of this whilst also operating the casual eateries PONY and SommerPONY. I take my hat off to you guys. What an excellent contribution you offer to the Danish food scene!

Squid, elstar apples, fermented wheat, pickled pine cones and flowers. That's one small bite for a man, but an insane explosion in your mouth!
Squid, elstar apples, fermented wheat, pickled pine cones and flowers. That’s one small bite for a man, but an insane explosion in your mouth!
2011 Sebastien Riffault, Skveldra, Sancerre
2011 Sebastien Riffault, Skveldra, Sancerre
Pickled onions, matured cheese, yogurt whey, leek and onion flowers
Pickled onions, matured cheese, yogurt whey, leek and onion flowers
Love and Pif! Loving this one by Yann Durieux Love and Pif Aligote
Love and Pif! Loving this one by Yann Durieux Love and Pif Aligote
Even the lamps are made of wood
Even the lamps are made of wood
Withered sorrel, potatoes, smoked herring and lovage
Withered sorrel, potatoes, smoked herring and lovage
Vouette & Sorbee, Cuvée Fidele, Champagne, Extra Brut
Vouette & Sorbee, Cuvée Fidele, Champagne, Extra Brut
Langoustine, walnuts, sea weed and salted scallop roe
Langoustine, walnuts, sea weed and salted scallop roe
Stella
Stella
Look at those wafer-thin walnut flakes. Imagine the work it takes to make them every night, but it's worth it. You enhance the flavor, and the texture is amazing.
Look at those wafer-thin walnut flakes. Imagine the work it takes to make them every night, but it’s worth it. You enhance the flavor, and the texture is amazing.
2013 Domaine Mark and Martial Angeli, La Lune, Chenin Blanc, Loire, France
2013 Domaine Mark and Martial Angeli, La Lune, Chenin Blanc, Loire, France
Smoked celeriac, caviar, woodruff and fermented white asparagus. Many new Nordic restaurants have their version of this, like Noma an Maaemo, but this is my favorite of them all. Celeriac, I love you!
Smoked celeriac, caviar, woodruff and fermented white asparagus. Many new Nordic restaurants have their version of this, like Noma an Maaemo, but this is my favorite of them all. Celeriac, I love you!
Dried, chewy yellow beets, grilled mussels and spinach. This dish made me realize how fucking amazing beets are, and how incredbile the technique of deydrating is to enhance flavors and create unique textures.
Dried, chewy yellow beets, grilled mussels and spinach. This dish made me realize how fucking amazing beets are, and how incredbile the technique of deydrating is to enhance flavors and create unique textures.
Smoked salmon and vinaigrette with elderflower, fig leaves, gooseberry and pear. So simple and delicious...
Smoked salmon and vinaigrette with elderflower, fig leaves, gooseberry and pear. So simple and delicious…
2014 Maxime Magnon Corbières, Métisse, Rosé Blend, Languedoc, France
2014 Maxime Magnon Corbières, Métisse, Rosé Blend, Languedoc, France
Pickled pumpkin, garlic, sunflower seeds and cheese fat. My least favorite dish of all the servings, but others at the table praised it.
Pickled pumpkin, garlic, sunflower seeds and cheese fat. My least favorite dish of all the servings, but others at the table praised it.
Roasted bread, herb butter infused with cherry wood embers. I actually preferred the more rustic bread of the old Kadeau, but this shows that the guys dared to swap the entire menu.
Roasted bread, herb butter infused with cherry wood embers. I actually preferred the more rustic bread of the old Kadeau, but this shows that the guys dared to swap the entire menu.
Matured raw sirloin, "Havgus" cheese, new and preserved mushrooms. One of the best new dishes of the Kadeau kitchen!
Matured raw sirloin, “Havgus” cheese, new and preserved mushrooms. One of the best new dishes of the Kadeau kitchen!
2012 Domaine Jean-Michel Stephan, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France
2012 Domaine Jean-Michel Stephan, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France
Such amazing combinations. I wish this dish was bigger, but maybe the clue is the small size that leaves you wanting more.
Such amazing combinations. I wish this dish was bigger, but maybe the clue is the small size that leaves you wanting more.
Wolly pig ham and pickles. Some green, unripe strawberries and fennel flowers in there at least
Wolly pig ham and pickles. Some green, unripe strawberries and fennel flowers in there at least
Plating the roasted pork
Plating the roasted pork
Fire roasted pork belly, black garlic, blackcurrant and salted flower buds
Fire roasted pork belly, black garlic, blackcurrant and salted flower buds
2013 Martin Arndorfer, Neuburger "Per Se", Kamptal, Austria. Orange wine
2013 Martin Arndorfer, Neuburger “Per Se”, Kamptal, Austria. Orange wine
Look at that crispy pork fat... It's even better than it looks like, and I can't convey the aromas to you through pictures. My goodness, the aromas...
Look at that crispy pork fat… It’s even better than it looks like, and I can’t convey the aromas to you through pictures. My goodness, the aromas…
Ember baked beetroot, grilled blue cheese, beach rose and shaved lamb heart
Ember baked beetroot, grilled blue cheese, beach rose and shaved lamb heart
2013 Rita & Rudolf Trossen, Von der Lay, Riesling Spätlese
2013 Rita & Rudolf Trossen, Von der Lay, Riesling Spätlese
Did I mention how much I love baked beets?
Did I mention how much I love baked beets?
Caramelized buttermilk tart, spruce cones and primula syrup
Caramelized buttermilk tart, spruce cones and primula syrup
Morten Falk, the Danish Bocuse d'Or competitor and head chef and owner Nicolai Nørregaard
Morten Falk, the Danish Bocuse d’Or competitor and head chef and owner Nicolai Nørregaard
A winter edition of the tart I ate this summer at the old Kadeau
A winter edition of the tart I ate this summer at the old Kadeau
White currants in white currant juice
White currants in white currant juice
2003 Samuel Tinon, Tokaji Aszú, Hungary
2003 Samuel Tinon, Tokaji Aszú, Hungary
Such a simple and delicious dessert. Just like you would get at your grandparents in the summer when you were a kid. Except they made it last through winter...
Such a simple and delicious dessert. Just like you would get at your grandparents in the summer when you were a kid. Except they made it last through winter…
Crispy sourdough with caramel of oak buds
Crispy sourdough with caramel of oak buds
Juniper cookie with quince and thyme
Juniper cookie with quince and thyme
Co-owner and restaurant manager Magnus Høegh Kofoed
Co-owner and restaurant manager Magnus Høegh Kofoed
This flavor brought me straight back to Bornholm, and my childhood, and everywhere nice...
This flavor brought me straight back to Bornholm, and my childhood, and everywhere nice…
Magnus has tatooed the island of Bornholm on his right arm
Magnus has tatooed the island of Bornholm on his right arm
Look for the blue door
Look for the blue door

Have you experienced the old and new Kadeau? Feel free to leave your thoughts in a comment below.

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