Restaurant Kadeau in Copenhagen has changed location! Nicolai Nørregaard, Magnus Høegh Kofoed and Rasmus Kofoed have not moved very far, though. In fact, they’ve just shifted to next door, from Wildersgade 10 A to 10 B. However, the move represents a far more significant change than the few metres would indicate. With the switch of interiors and a brand-new kitchen comes a completely remade menu as well. Every element from the tasting menu I had here last summer is gone, and replaced with food that is right on the cutting-edge of new Nordic cooking. I would be surprised if the new Kadeau Copenhagen is not a candidate for two Michelin stars in the near future.
At the start of 2015, I had only dreamt about eating at Kadeau some day. Little did I know that one year later I would have paid them as many as four visits! Last year I visited both their original restaurant Kadeau on the island paradise of Bornholm, the Copenhagen branch in the late summer, and their new location by the end of November. In January this year, I went back to the Copenhagen location again! This time to celebrate the birthday of Virginia from restaurant Geranium with a bunch of other foodies. We had rented the whole place.
The new Kadeau has one of the most amazing open kitchens I have ever seen. It’s custom made by a woodworker, and consist of two floating islands with a clear view of the entire restaurant. There’s no walls or windows between the kitchen and restaurant, it’s just one big open room. Another important part of the kitchen is the fireplace, which helps create that flavor and aroma of rural Bornholm. The interior is a mix of Scandinavian and Japanese. Beautiful wooden slats, wooden tables, and chairs and even wooden lamps! Such a pleasant and cozy atmosphere makes it so much easier to forgive that there’s not a sandy beach outside or ocean as far as the eye can see. Only Kadeau Bornholm can give you that experience, but the new Kadeau Copenhagen makes you forget about the world outside completely.
The food at the new Kadeau Copenhagen is one big feast for the taste buds, especially if you’re fond of acidity. The presentations are not as spectacular as they were at the old location in Copenhagen or in the summer on Bornholm, but flavorwise I found it to be a considerable upgrade. I guess I shouldn’t be so surprised that the presentations are less colorful and bright in the winter. Afterall, most of the stuff they use is either pickled, fermented or preserved in some way to make it last. In a new Nordic kitchen, the winter is a dead season. In that sense, the plates truly represent the nature and vegetation in our cold and frostbitten part of the world. I’m excited to see how the summer menu will look like, though.
The Danish journalist Joakim Grundahl wrote in Politiken that Kadeau has the ability to immerse nature in photographic developer. This is exactly what I’ve been thinking, I’ve just not been able to put it as well as he did. Kadeau is all about the nature at Bornholm. Nature is presented on your plate, almost naked and raw. The Kadeau guys have simply lifted it up a level, extracted its true flavor, and forced the full potential out of each bite. The combinations are impeccable. Each plate is a small surprise. You can look forward to every one of the 20 servings. It’s even hard to choose a favorite. So hard, in fact, that I couldn’t even pick one for my top 20 dishes last year. I would’ve had to put the whole meal in there.
It’s impossible not to be amazed by the force of the Kadeau trio. First, they move their old one Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen and reopen as one of the most beautiful looking restaurants in the world with top level food. Then they turn their old venue into a more laid-back brasserie with inspiration from across the world. I called Eldorado an instant new favorite of mine in Copenhagen, and everyone I have recommended it to falls in love. At the same time Nicolai, Magnus, and Ramus go ahead and receive their first Michelin star for the original restaurant on Bornholm. All of this whilst also operating the casual eateries PONY and SommerPONY. I take my hat off to you guys. What an excellent contribution you offer to the Danish food scene!
Have you experienced the old and new Kadeau? Feel free to leave your thoughts in a comment below.