Kyobar is a counter-seat restaurant, located within the Siam Paragon mall, dedicated to serving only desserts. The concept draws much inspiration from Japanese culture, especially Kyoto (hence the name), and the multi-course kaiseki meals. Operated by chef Dej Kewkacha and his brother Litti, who, under the brand Kacha Bros, own and run several restaurants around town. Among them Teraoka Gyoza. I was surprised to find that I had been following Litti on Instagram for a long time (and so should you) because I knew him only as a foodie, and not a restaurateur.
Kyobar is a branch of Kyo Roll En – famous for its roll cakes. Dej Kewkacha is the head chef at both places – a self-taught patissier and a true artist. People who find a place at his 14-seat counter bar, the chef’s table, are in for a high-end omakase experience in the world of sweets. Many dishes are made to emulate a savory course, like the egg or the rice porridge (which reminded me of traditional Norwegian risengrynsgrøt), while others are intended to trick your mind (the edible charcoal meringue, or the raindrop mochi). Common for all dishes, is that they are deeply rooted in Japanese traditions. Onsen is a great example, served in a wooden box with a fog of dry ice pumping out, setting the mood of a classic Japanese sauna experience. A hot sauce of red berries is poured over the lid made from white chocolate, melting it, and further adding to the illusion.
I’m not a big fan of matcha, but the matcha soft serve and roll cake with bamboo charcoal at Kyobar was delicious. Somehow they managed to balance that herby flavor that I dislike. Another favorite of mine was the black sesame cheesecake. I was struck by the beauty of Cacao Story, even though it was too rich in chocolate for my personal taste. Similar, I found the Raindrop Cake impressive, but flavor-wise it was not my thing. The meal had a progression, starting with small snacks, continuing with bigger courses, and ending with some petits fours. With Kyobar, I think Dej and Litti have proven that sweets do not need to be limited to the last part of a meal, but that you can make a complete dining experience from only desserts.
Looking for more great spots for food in the Thai capital? Check out my foodie map of Bangkok.
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