One of L.A.’s best new restaurants has opened in the unlikeliest of places – the parking garage at the Beverly Center. It’s a weird location, but once you step inside the door of Angler, you’re transported to another land – a land where the elements are at war. If you’re a fan of Saison and chef Josh Skenes, you might recognize a few design elements, but Angler has a laidback style that’s all its own. On your left is the open kitchen, sparking and smoking while the chefs fan the flames, all dishes touching the wood-fired grill. On your right, large aquarium tanks are filled with the finest catches of the day, from small spot prawns to gargantuan Alaskan King Crabs. Fire meets water, and your meal begins.
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What to Order at Angler
The extensive wine list has something for everyone on the menu, whether you stick to the classics or prefer the funky, natural juice, but you’d be remiss to skip out on the cocktails. We particularly enjoyed the Daisy with tequila, passionfruit, and pisco, one of the most well-balanced cocktails we’ve had in Los Angeles. The signature banana pancakes with caviar are not to be missed – it’s a dish that walks that sweet and savory tightrope so well you wonder if you should have it as a starter or dessert. Why not both? The grilled radicchio is dressed in so much radicchio X.O. sauce that they provide a bib – one slice of the knife and you have blood all over your hands.
In terms of seafood, we loved the grilled spot prawns and the sea bream ceviche, which had a nice sweet and salty balance and a crispy plantain chip on top. On the side, you’re going to want to order the Angler Hasselback potatoes with cheese sauce, and the Parker House rolls, served with cultured seaweed butter, which are so light and fluffy we couldn’t resist ordering a second round. Do save room for the soft serve sundae topped with ember caramel (yes, the caramel is actually smoked with real embers from the fire) and candied cacao nibs. Most of the menu is reasonably priced, with lots of dishes under $20, but if you want to splurge on the $800 Alaskan King Crab we’d recommend bringing a large group.
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Have you been to Angler? Leave a comment below.