While the world waits for Noma 2.0 to reopen in late December 2017 at their new location on Refshaleøen, some Noma employees are seeking shelter under a bridge. Literally underneath Knippelsbro, where parts of the staff are hosting family style dinners with two seatings every night – 5.30 PM and 8.30 PM. Originally supposed to be a month-long pop-up, while the creative team is researching Greenland, Iceland, and the Faroe Islands, but now it looks like they have prolonged Under the Bridge until the end of September. The price for the fixed menu, including drinks, is DKK 1250 ($200, €170). If you don’t drink alcohol, they will serve you a homemade juice pairing. Get your tickets here!
The Wine Importer Under the Bridge
The concept of hosting social dinners under Knippelsbro belongs to Rosforth and Rosforth (R&R) – a natural wine importer which has a store below the bridge. Every summer, they serve wine and food outside their shop along the canal, and sometimes they invite special guest chefs. Noma has a long history of cooperation with R&R, and get wines delivered every year from the vessel Tres Hombres – the only brigantine in the world without a motor. It sails on 100% wind energy from Brest in Brittany, France all the way to Copenhagen, Denmark, carrying over 8000 bottles of organic wine. Noma’s Under the Bridge pop-up was a partnership with R&R, thus, all the wines this evening were from their selection. There’s also a wine bar that accepts walk-ins, where you can enjoy only the wine and some bar snacks. Watch out for special events as well, like the Belles Hot Chicken lunch that took place earlier in the day. You can see pictures from that on my Facebook page.
Family Style Social Dining
Although, Noma is definitely no stranger to pop-ups, having hosted successful events in Japan, Australia, and Mexico – this was different. First off, we were all seated around one big table, and they placed me and Hedda opposite of each other in order to connect us with as many strangers as possible. I love this kind of social dining, where you never know with whom you will have connected to by the end of the night. We had a charming American couple from Los Angeles on one side, and two French sisters, one residing in Paris and one in Copenhagen, on the other. Secondly, if you expect the usual tiny, detailed, and artsy presentations of Noma, you are in for a surprise. This time, it’s a family-style dinner with large, hearty, sharing platters of simple, yet delicious grilled food – perfect for a Scandinavian summer evening.
A Noma Kitchen Without Limitations
The style of food at Noma Under the Bridge is actually closer to the newest restaurant in the Noma-family, Barr, except they don’t limit themselves to any cuisine. The dinner we had was clearly a mix of all the inspiration the team had gathered in both Sydney and Tulum. I recognized the tomato dish from Noma Australia (also served at Noma Copenhagen before they closed). You can probably guess which country came to mind when we got shrimp tacos with chile de Arbol. The main course, though, was proper Scandinavian home cooking! Cod with ramson capers, cauliflower with a butter and squid ink sauce, and, of course, potatoes. The blueberry ice cream sandwich was probably my favorite serving, but I also loved how they went all French with the petite four, serving something as un-Noma-esque as a canelé. My French neighbor did point out, however, that it didn’t taste Parisian enough, so I guess it was a Noma-version after all. I could sit all night under the bridge, just soaking in that unique Copenhagen vibe. Unfortunately, we had a flight to catch home.
Have you been to Noma Under the Bridge, or do you plan on going? Let me know what you think in a comment.