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Studio at the Standard Nordic and French Cuisine in Harmony

Studio at the Standard is just one of three restaurants in this beautiful art deco building located along the Copenhagen harbor. Downstairs there’s a slightly more casual Danish brasserie called Almanak and the restaurant Verandah, which is something as rare as an Indian gourmet restaurant. However, the true gem is found upstairs. Studio at the Standard is currently a one Michelin starred restaurant – a star which they earned just five months after opening. I think the Nordic & French fine dining, in this restaurant complex owned by restaurateur Claus Meyer, definitely have two stars within reach.

The Standard is an old building in art deco style
The Standard is an old building in art deco style

With a view to Noma on the other side of the water, you can even look back at the heritage of head chef Torsten Vildgaard. There’s no doubt that he’s been influenced by being René Redzepi’s sous chef for many years, but he’s most certainly doing his own thing now. At Studio you get classic gourmet ingredients like caviar, truffle, foie gras, sweetbreads and quail eggs wrapped in a beautiful new Nordic style of presentation. If you leave unhappy from this place you are spoiled beyond comparison.

Studio has one Michelin star
Studio has one Michelin star
The Gourmand Pilgrim and Vinstudinen with Noma in the background across the water
The Gourmand Pilgrim and Vinstudinen with Noma in the background across the water

This was one of my must-visit destinations last summer, and the only reason I haven’t written about it yet, is because the pictures looked way too summery to post once the grey and cold Norwegian winter was a reality. My table companions this evening was the always wonderful Gourmand Pilgrim and the most interesting wine writer I know: Vinstudinen. If you haven’t already discovered her blog you should check it out right now and read more about the wines we had. I introduced the two ladies to each other this evening, and I am happy to say they have since become good friends. Linn even went to visit Anna at her home in Switzerland this year.

The tools of the studio are ready
The tools of the studio are ready
The Standard actually houses three restaurants: Studio, Almanak and Verandah
The Standard actually houses three restaurants: Studio, Almanak and Verandah
Pink Champagne chosen by the ladies of course
Pink Champagne chosen by the ladies of course

I had the pleasure of dining downstairs at Almanak a few years ago, but I really had no idea what was awaiting me on the top floor. Studio is a spectacular showcase of the amazing talent of chef Vildgaard. There’s also a jazz club at the same level, by the way, which I really want to check out someday when I have more time. The Standard could pretty much fulfill your every need if you’re only in Copenhagen for a weekend. There are even hotels and a great wine bar called Den Vandrette just across the street, and the location couldn’t be any better.

The first aperitif is served from what I thought was the vase on our table
The first aperitif is served from what I thought was the vase on our table
Flower water and granite of gooseberries and pine
Flower water and granite of gooseberries and pine
Potato chips with smoked cod roe
Potato chips with smoked cod roe

In the middle of the room of Studio, there’s a lovely piece of vintage furniture that serves as the sommelier’s table. The roles seemed to be organized in such a manner that the sommelier was our table host, and the chefs, including Torsten Vildgaard himself, helped to present some of the dishes. All guests have a clear view into the open kitchen at one end of the room. There are even some seats at the bar around the kitchen, which is where I had originally booked before I decided to meet up with friends instead.

A unique presentation. I loved this one
A unique presentation. I loved this one
Rose Champagne and flowers
Rose Champagne and flowers
Biodynamic leek with parsley and hay
Biodynamic leek with parsley and hay
The devil is in the detail
The devil is in the detail

Our sommelier was a good host with a great sense of humor. He kept us entertained the whole evening, while spending just the right amount of time at our table. That is a balance which very few waiters or sommeliers master, but he did it perfectly. When Linn dropped her napkin cloth the 11th time due to a slippery skirt, though, he was understandably unable to hold back his laughter. Just like the rest of us.

Oysters with green strawberries and dill
Oysters with green strawberries and dill
Quail egg and summer truffle. Careful, better pick the edible ones!
Quail egg and summer truffle. Careful, better pick the edible ones!
Razor clams getting prepared for serving
Razor clams getting prepared for serving

When the bread was brought to our table our host told us a story about the sourdough. According to legends this particular sourdough was stolen by Torsten Vildgaard from Noma when he quit his job 9 years ago. Our sommelier pointed towards Noma in the distance behind us. It was getting dark now, but the building was lit and we could see there were people having a great meal over there as well. Possibly as great as the lunch me and Linn was about to enjoy there the next day.

All plated next to our table
All plated next to our table
Razor clams and Nouc Nam
Razor clams and Nouc Nam
Watermelon with yuzu and sake. Refreshing!
Watermelon with yuzu and sake. Refreshing!

Whether the story was true or not, we are not sure about, but Linn was so amazed by it that she begged to get a sample from the sourdough. What you need to know about Linn is that she was a sourdough nerd before she became a total wine nerd. Getting a piece of this historic sourdough would be an amazing triumph for her. Personally, I was convinced they would never give away a sample of such a precious thing. But lo and behold, as a final surprise after all desserts and petits fours was served, a Norwegian chef came out from the kitchen with a box that read: Studio’s sursöla. Linn still bakes with it, and I have stolen a piece of it as well. That way we can still think back and dream of the amazing meal we once shared at Studio.

Linn got a sample of the sourdough from one of the Norwegian chefs in the kitchen
Linn got a sample of the sourdough from one of the Norwegian chefs in the kitchen
A sample of Studio's sourdough
A sample of Studio’s sourdough
NV Fleury, Fleur de l’Europe (04/05), Champagne, France. One of my favorites
NV Fleury, Fleur de l’Europe (04/05), Champagne, France. One of my favorites
Gougères and löjrom with sour cream. And this is not even the bread serving
Gougères and löjrom with sour cream. And this is not even the bread serving
You can pretty much tell I'm happy about the Champagne we got
You can pretty much tell I’m happy about the Champagne we got
White sturgeon Caviar with walnut milk
White sturgeon Caviar with walnut milk
Raw marinated scallops with fresh hazelnuts, berries and Jerusalem artichoke. White currants juice.
Raw marinated scallops with fresh hazelnuts, berries and Jerusalem artichoke. White currants juice.
Studio takes you out of the restaurant and into the forest
Studio takes you out of the restaurant and into the forest
2013 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Bourgogne, France
2013 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Bourgogne, France
Sautéed squid, creamy mussel sauce & beach plants
Sautéed squid, creamy mussel sauce & beach plants
The turbot was roasted next to our table
The turbot was roasted next to our table
2010 Viura, Capellania, Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja, Spain
2010 Viura, Capellania, Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja, Spain
Whole roasted turbot with roots of salad & weeds
Whole roasted turbot with roots of salad & weeds
Sourdough bread on a very old sourdough with virgin butter
Sourdough bread on a very old sourdough with virgin butter
Veal sweetbread glazed with Vadouvan, grilled onions gooseberries & black garlic emulsion
Veal sweetbread glazed with Vadouvan, grilled onions gooseberries & black garlic emulsion
2012 Grenache, Besson Vineyard ‘Birichino’, Central Coast, California, USA
2012 Grenache, Besson Vineyard ‘Birichino’, Central Coast, California, USA
Pan fried foie gras and red oxalis with beetroot, rhubarb & crown dill sauce. It seemed like Studio just wanted us to eat everything that is good in this world!
Pan fried foie gras and red oxalis with beetroot, rhubarb & crown dill sauce. It seemed like Studio just wanted us to eat everything that is good in this world!
Why was I not surprised to see truffle?
Why was I not surprised to see truffle?
Truffle shaving in progress. Don't disturb. Just breath in the aromas
Truffle shaving in progress. Don’t disturb. Just breath in the aromas
You can never have enough truffle in your life
You can never have enough truffle in your life
Loin of deer with grilled cherry, new beetroots, orange Tagetes & truffle
Loin of deer with grilled cherry, new beetroots, orange Tagetes & truffle
A classic. 2014 Riesling Auslese, Wittmann, Rheinhessen, Germany
A classic. 2014 Riesling Auslese, Wittmann, Rheinhessen, Germany
Green gooseberries, green camomile & verbena
Green gooseberries, green camomile & verbena
This emoji means yum
This emoji means yum
Never a fine dining meal without some dry ice action
Never a fine dining meal without some dry ice action
Norwegian brown cheese with fresh Swedish blueberries & thyme
Norwegian brown cheese with fresh Swedish blueberries & thyme
French nougat with dried fruits and nuts
French nougat with dried fruits and nuts
Sea buckthorn macarons
Sea buckthorn macarons
“Flødebolle” with yuzu and fermented garlic. Lakrids by Johan Bülow inside, of course
“Flødebolle” with yuzu and fermented garlic. Lakrids by Johan Bülow inside, of course

Have you been to any of the restaurants at the Standard? Please share your experience in a comment.

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